Can you rappel with an ATC
Emily Dawson
Published Mar 07, 2026
The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering.
Can you rappel with ATC pilot?
Rappelling. While the Black Diamond ATC Pilot is not designed for rappelling it can safely be used to descend a single strand rappel. Care must be taken as without gloves on your hand will come in contact with the carabiner which will create some heat on a long or fast rappel.
Is ATC pilot assisted braking?
The ATC Pilot weighs only 86g (making it one of the lightest assisted braking devices available) and it accepts ropes from 8.7–10.5mm in diameter, which accommodates most single ropes. … As the belayer, assisted braking means less straining to hold a climber who is working out the moves to a tricky climb.
Can you single strand rappel on an ATC?
There are lots of situations where you might want to rappel single strand. … You could rappel single strand down one side of a simul rappel. You could rappel single strand down a rope that has been rigged as a contingency anchor (with a figure 8, munter-mule, or ATC).Why does an ATC have two sides?
Some devices are asymmetric and the two holes provide different friction. Others are shaped with an up and down orientation, so two holes are provided to make it easy for left/right handed people. Some lead climbs are better tackled with two lines of anchors. The two holes make it easy to belay a two-rope climb.
Can you self belay with a GRIGRI?
Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited.
What does ATC stand for climbing?
The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design.
Which ATC should I buy?
- Black Diamond Big Air XP Package. …
- PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device. …
- Mammut Crag Light Belay Device. …
- EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device. …
- CAMP Shell Belay Device. …
- KAILAS ATC Alopias Belay Rappel Device. …
- DMM Pivot Belay Device. …
- PETZL Grigri Belay Device.
Do you need a GRIGRI to lead climb?
A GRIGRI is a great choice for belaying a lead climber, but the technique is slightly more complicated than belaying with a more traditional tubular-style device like an ATC. In order to pay out slack, you need to override the cam while still holding onto the brake strand.
Does ATC pilot auto lock?Since it’s so much cheaper than most auto-locking devices, this is a great option for programs or climbing gyms that want the extra security of the auto-lock without the expense when buying multiple units.
Article first time published onWhat is HMS carabiner?
HMS Carabiner – Also referred to as pear-shaped carabiners, these are special oversized versions of the offset d-shape designed for belay use. Because of this design, they excel when used with a belay device or using a hitch to belay with.
How do you rappel with two ropes?
The trick is to tie the two ropes together at the top of your rappel to secure them through the rappel anchors, and then lower yourself on the 7.7mm rope. Once you reach the bottom, you pull on the thinner rope to retrieve your line.
What equipment do you need for belaying?
Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear.
Can you abseil using a GRIGRI?
Sometimes you may want both hands free while abseiling to do things like clean a route, free a stuck rope or swing under an overhang. Using a GriGri is a safe way to do this. Or maybe you have a damaged rope and still need to abseil.
What does Redpoint mean in rock climbing?
This is when you successfully climb a route after having practiced it beforehand. “Practice” can come in many forms, including previously attempting and failing on a route or top-roping the route before attempting a lead climb. You might hear climbers refer to climbing near their redpoint.
What is a Gaston in climbing?
In climbing, a gaston is a kind of grip which involves pushing a hold instead of pulling. To grab a hold as a gaston a climber would turn his palm away from him, with the thumb pointing down and the elbow out, and generate friction against the hold by pressing outward toward the elbow.